“I’m addicted to you, but you know that you’re toxic”. The words once sung by Britney Spears to a badly behaved lover, could have equally been directed to her make-up bag. Because Ms Spears, it is fair to surmise, is probably as reliant on toiletries as the average woman - or man, for that matter.

Women in Britain typically use up to 5lbs of toiletries a year and slap on 12 different products each day. But experts say that consumers’ awareness of what is in beauty products, and how toxic these ingredients can be, is still very limited.  

Over the past decade, research has accumulated that links common cosmetics ingredients to many conditions: from eczema to cancers and the ‘feminisation’ of male babies. But the message has struggled to break through from the fringes of natural health into the mainstream.  

“People assume that everything on the market is tried, tested and perfectly safe. But the testing process is not necessarily adequate.” says Elizabeth Salter-Green, author of the book The Toxic Consumer and founder of the CHEM Trust. Salter-Green says that it’s impossible to navigate your way around the ingredients list on a shampoo bottle unless you have a degree in organic and inorganic chemistry.

What to avoid

According to Salter-Green, the Women’s Environmental Network and countless other groups, the common skincare ingredients that we should steer clear of are phthalates, parabens, sodium lauryl sulphate and triclosan. Try to avoid products that have ‘parfum’ on the ingredients list or the word ‘fragrance’ – these chemicals are the most common cause of skin sensitivity and irritation.

Parabens and their effects

Most cosmetics campaigners list parabens, also known as para-hydroxybenzoic acid, as one of their worst enemies. These preservatives are widely used in shampoos, make-up, lotions and deodorants, despite the links to cancer suggested by some scientists.  

A 2004 study of 20 breast cancer tissue samples found parabens in 18 of the patients. The author of the study, Dr Darbre, acknowledges that traditional products have been tested and meet strict EU safety laws. But she insists we need to take “a closer look at what effect a combination of products has over a prolonged period of time”.  

Critics argue that Darbre’s study was very small and that healthy breast tissue should’ve been included to accurately indicate cancer risk. Currently, the majority of scientific opinion still needs convincing.  

The cosmetics industry is in no such doubt. Noting that their use is permitted under European law, cosmetics giant Unilever insists that parabens are safe and effective preservatives.  

But Darbre remains convinced that there is a big link betweens parabens and breast cancer. Her research has encouraged her to adopt a beauty regime of washing twice a day with just soap and water. Skin is porous, so anything you put on it is absorbed directly into your body.  “If you put cosmetics on to your skin they will get into your body - we know that,” Darbre says.

Phthalates facts

Next on the list is phthalates – a group of synthetic chemicals often used as softeners or as a plasticiser in children’s toys, nail varnishes, perfumes and shampoos. In a number of studies, including one by a team at the University of Rochester, New York, a mother’s exposure to phthalates was linked to a higher risk of male genital abnormalities.  

In October 2007, California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger signed a bill banning phthalates in children's products. “These chemicals threaten the health and safety of our children at critical stages of their development,” he said. 

Label fable

If you believe you are covered because you choose products with claims such as ‘organic’, ‘natural’, ‘hypoallergenic’ and ‘sensitive’, beware – they actually mean precious little.  

Abi Weeds, business development director at Essential Care – a small, family run toiletries company – explains: “At the moment there’s nothing to stop anyone putting the word ‘organic’ on their product, even if it’s only got a miniscule amount of organic oil in it. And ‘natural’ can just as easily refer to petrol as it can an essential oil,” she adds.  

Weeds is currently campaigning against companies putting misleading claims, particularly the ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ ones, on their products.

Green make-up

In the meantime, what can you do if you want a greener beauty regime?  

Weeds, Darbre and Salter-Green all believe that cutting down on toiletries is the first step to a healthier and greener body. “You shouldn’t need a different cream for your neck, face, eyes and body,” says Weeds. “If you have one good cream that isn’t harsh, that should work all over.”  

If you don’t want to go as far as Darbre and bin your make-up bag altogether, you could try making some homemade beauty treats. See the forums at It’s not easy being green for some simple or exotic ideas for your own preparations.  

For extra assurance, you could look for the Soil Association’s stamp as a mark of approval. It is not fool proof, but approved products have to meet standards related to reduction of packaging and minimal environmental impact.

For some years now, those leading the revolt against conventional cosmetic companies have found solace in the ever-increasing range of hemp toiletries available. They’re largely devoid of ‘nasties’ and are a good green alternative because hemp grows fairly freely and quickly without the use of pesticides. Try Yaoh for an idea of what’s available.